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I mean, I’m not yet stuck at the airport, surviving on chocolate bars and chips, sleeping on plastic benches, but I figure I’m getting pretty close to it.
Heather and I are due to fly out of Tokyo Narita for London Heathrow together just after 11:00 am on Thursday December 23rd. As of Yesterday, Sunday December 19th, London Heathrow was closed due to all the snow that has been dumped down on it. If this were a one-off, freak thing, I wouldn’t be so concerned, but seemingly the whole of England has been plunged into a snowy cold more reminiscent of Toronto or Hokkaido for several weeks now. It’s one of those places like Vancouver, where it rarely snows or gets too cold in the winter, so they’re not exactly prepared for it, and business will grind to a half when anything more than an inch or two falls and stays around on the ground.
But they’ve been getting feet of the stuff. One can imagine by how many orders of magnitude that had messed things up. Airport after airport in the UK had been closing, but—until Sunday—Heathrow had held out. Now they’re closed, and the Monday version of our same flight from Tokyo to London was cancelled. Here’s hoping that Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday make it through without any hiccups.
All of this is further complicated by the fact that we have separate flights booked down to Tokyo and back, and those flights are a good two weeks apart from one another. We’ve got one night of accommodation booked on Wednesday night after our late flight in from Sapporo Chitose, but if we try to head to Narita at the crack of dawn on Thursday morning, only to discover our flight to Heathrow has been cancelled, we’ll be doubly stranded: unable to make it to London, and without a flight back up to Sapporo. Further, as we’re nothing if not organized, we’ve both already shipped part of our luggage (the part containing the majority of our clothes and all of our たのしい Christmas gifts) ahead to Tokyo Narita so we could just pick it up and jump on our plane.
So this is me, now finished my lessons before Christmas and with only one and a half days of volleyball at my high school before I attempt to head to Sapporo for my flight down to Tokyo. As I stare out the window at rainy, warm-ish weather more befitting of England, I polish the golden horshoe I’ve had lodged in my colon for most of my life and try to devise clandestine, druidic rituals to appease the weather gods and grant me and my lady safe passage through to her ancestral home come Thursday.
Wish us luck.
Determined to make up lost time on this slow season, Mark, Lindsay and I hit up Grand Hirafu on the Saturday of this past weekend, and then Lindsay and I hit up Annupuri on the Sunday for our first Niseko boarding weekend of the season. The conditions at Hirafu were both beautiful and fantastic in a sun-and-cloud-and-snow kind of way…though it got a little windy higher on the mountain. The snow persisted well into the night, and I think it helped me fall in love with night skiing a little bit. It was my first time doing it since something like Blue Mountain back in Ontario in the tenth grade, and Hirafu was a helluva place to do it as the portion of the mountain that is open for night skiing is bigger than some of the full areas other skijos open for day skiing.
The conditions on Annupuri on Sunday weren’t as hot (I’m used to the place being covered in amounts of fluffy white stuff that are best described as “obscene”), and it was very clear that we were still boarding in the early season. Still, it was really good to be able to work with Lindsay on getting better, and there were delicious burgers to be had, served hot and fresh out of the back of a Big White Pedophile Van. There were also onsens after, where the old insides were absolutely rotten with mineral deposits and the beginnings of moss, while the outsides were perfect rotenburo pools of hot situated between snowy waterfalls and snow forests. And then there was Lindsay driving into a ditch when a douchebag refused to yield the road. But there was also a hero of a Japanese guy who dragged us out of the ditch using a hook and a cable and his Toyota SUV, saying only the word “neutral” to us in the whole exchange, despite my I’m-sorry-we-killed-your-mafia-dog bowing.
Enough chatter, though. I actually brought my good camera with me for the first time, so here are some of the photos from Hirafu that I actually remembered to take. Annupuri on Sunday was a little less photographically salient.
Winter exists, my love.
It has been hiding from us at the heart of Hokkaido, sheltered in from the coasts and the seas, in places you have to brave dangerous high passes to find. From December's first sprinklings you drive up and over mountains and down into the icy full of February.
At summit, you break the clouds momentarily and are reminded of the sun, of the blue sky, and then down you plunge, past other peaks where you can SEE the howl of the white wind as it curls over the top of them like they were so many tiny snow piles.
You dive down through blizzards that make your stomach drop when you look up and can no longer see anything out of the front of the bus, to ski-jos where the white around and the grey above is all so thick that they have to burn night lights in the day time in a vain attempt to glow orange through the soup of it.
It is here that winter has been hiding while we pined away for it for so long: here, hunkered down in these forgotten valleys at island's core, where it may well have waited out the whole of the long, hot summer.
Never melting. Only waiting to blow back out across Hokkaido.
And, from what I've seen here today, there is no doubt that it's coming.