Tuesday, December 28, 2010

The History House

Heather's fantastic History House in Historic Warwick.

Heather's picture storybook house, wherein every wall in every room is hung with a profusion of sketches and pictures and paintings.

Wherein father Martin will follow you around, unlocking each work in turn: swinging back their frames and glass, and pouring out their unique stories upon you.

I return to rooms, and the art appears to be breeding: multiplying and migrating--new works jumping out behind their hung brothers to surprise and delight when you think you've seen them all.

As we open our mountains of presents on Christmas Day, Martin and Frances deal out art to each other and to all of us as if it were the banal everyday of CDs and DVDs. Small-run, woodblock prints and imitation scrimshaw locking boxes and 1940's silver lipstick containers and copper ingots melted down from historically-salient sailing ships. From the treasures they produce out of their bottomless sacks, you'd think them less father and mother Christmases and more pirates or explorers: dealing in the lossless media of yesterdays.

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Excerpts from the History House

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

And Away We Go...

This is going to be the last one from me for a while. Tomorrow I jump on a plane to Tokyo, and--Old Man Winter willing--on Thursday Heather and I board our flight out to snowy England. Today's version of BA006 actually flew (albeit, significantly delayed), so I'm crossing my fingers and my toes and shining the golden horseshoe up my butt in the hopes that when Thursday rolls around we'll be able to fly, too.

I had meant to pull a Gaiman this year and write something clever and christmassy to put in cards, but I failed, so you're stuck with this from The Man Himself, which is, likely, infinitely better than anything I would have pulled off:

Nicholas Was (sorry about not having some sexy way to embed it)

Monday, December 20, 2010

"I'll be Home for Christmas..."

I’m living a holiday cliché.

I mean, I’m not yet stuck at the airport, surviving on chocolate bars and chips, sleeping on plastic benches, but I figure I’m getting pretty close to it.

Heather and I are due to fly out of Tokyo Narita for London Heathrow together just after 11:00 am on Thursday December 23rd. As of Yesterday, Sunday December 19th, London Heathrow was closed due to all the snow that has been dumped down on it. If this were a one-off, freak thing, I wouldn’t be so concerned, but seemingly the whole of England has been plunged into a snowy cold more reminiscent of Toronto or Hokkaido for several weeks now. It’s one of those places like Vancouver, where it rarely snows or gets too cold in the winter, so they’re not exactly prepared for it, and business will grind to a half when anything more than an inch or two falls and stays around on the ground.

But they’ve been getting feet of the stuff. One can imagine by how many orders of magnitude that had messed things up. Airport after airport in the UK had been closing, but—until Sunday—Heathrow had held out. Now they’re closed, and the Monday version of our same flight from Tokyo to London was cancelled. Here’s hoping that Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday make it through without any hiccups.

All of this is further complicated by the fact that we have separate flights booked down to Tokyo and back, and those flights are a good two weeks apart from one another. We’ve got one night of accommodation booked on Wednesday night after our late flight in from Sapporo Chitose, but if we try to head to Narita at the crack of dawn on Thursday morning, only to discover our flight to Heathrow has been cancelled, we’ll be doubly stranded: unable to make it to London, and without a flight back up to Sapporo. Further, as we’re nothing if not organized, we’ve both already shipped part of our luggage (the part containing the majority of our clothes and all of our たのしい Christmas gifts) ahead to Tokyo Narita so we could just pick it up and jump on our plane.

So this is me, now finished my lessons before Christmas and with only one and a half days of volleyball at my high school before I attempt to head to Sapporo for my flight down to Tokyo. As I stare out the window at rainy, warm-ish weather more befitting of England, I polish the golden horshoe I’ve had lodged in my colon for most of my life and try to devise clandestine, druidic rituals to appease the weather gods and grant me and my lady safe passage through to her ancestral home come Thursday.

Wish us luck.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

A Winter Weekend

Determined to make up lost time on this slow season, Mark, Lindsay and I hit up Grand Hirafu on the Saturday of this past weekend, and then Lindsay and I hit up Annupuri on the Sunday for our first Niseko boarding weekend of the season. The conditions at Hirafu were both beautiful and fantastic in a sun-and-cloud-and-snow kind of way…though it got a little windy higher on the mountain. The snow persisted well into the night, and I think it helped me fall in love with night skiing a little bit. It was my first time doing it since something like Blue Mountain back in Ontario in the tenth grade, and Hirafu was a helluva place to do it as the portion of the mountain that is open for night skiing is bigger than some of the full areas other skijos open for day skiing.

The conditions on Annupuri on Sunday weren’t as hot (I’m used to the place being covered in amounts of fluffy white stuff that are best described as “obscene”), and it was very clear that we were still boarding in the early season. Still, it was really good to be able to work with Lindsay on getting better, and there were delicious burgers to be had, served hot and fresh out of the back of a Big White Pedophile Van. There were also onsens after, where the old insides were absolutely rotten with mineral deposits and the beginnings of moss, while the outsides were perfect rotenburo pools of hot situated between snowy waterfalls and snow forests. And then there was Lindsay driving into a ditch when a douchebag refused to yield the road. But there was also a hero of a Japanese guy who dragged us out of the ditch using a hook and a cable and his Toyota SUV, saying only the word “neutral” to us in the whole exchange, despite my I’m-sorry-we-killed-your-mafia-dog bowing.

Enough chatter, though. I actually brought my good camera with me for the first time, so here are some of the photos from Hirafu that I actually remembered to take. Annupuri on Sunday was a little less photographically salient.


Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Bogged down in powder up to my waist, right before I had to use my snowboard to climb back up to a lift. Not fun.

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

Grand Hirafu - December 2010

2010 – 2011 Mountain Days 3&4

Thursday, December 16, 2010

And a Jolly Good Christmas to You

Whereas my brother and father flew over to Japan to inject a little more family into my first Christmas away from home, this year I'll be borrowing Heather's family for the occasion. After months of planning and waiting for our first big trip together, it is now only a week until we fly from Tokyo to London before heading on to her hometown of Warwick.

Ever since we came up with the idea of me accompanying her when she headed home for the holidays, I've had Dickensian visions of a white christmas dancing through my head. I've been trying to ready myself for the actual thing being far less Halmark Idyllic (though with the wacky, snowy weather the UK has been having of late, who knows), but I'm still expecting the experience to be pretty swell as Heather's parents live in a big old house in a town that has its own castle. Also, she tells me that her dad places as much importance on cooking as my own father does. Finally, my cries for Fish and Chips, Indian Food, and good cheese have not fallen on deaf ears, and she's promised me all of the above, perhaps with some delicious baked goods thrown in for good measure.

Long story short, I'm expecting to come back to Japan a good deal fatter than I left it.

Now I just need to keep myself from going squirrelly as I play the waiting game for the next week. I also need to reign my brain in and plan some Christmas classes for the elementary as I'm already getting into cerebral holiday mode.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Modern Myths: The Tanuki

Here's something I've been meaning to write for a while. one section of it came to me rather vividly month back, and I wrote it down, but I'd been procrastinating on fleshing out the greater story it was meant to sit in. I think this is a good start, and due to concerns of time and of preventing it from lying idle for so long that it dies, here it is in its current state. It's not perfect yet, though, and I have a lot of love for what it could be, so I hope I can expand upon it some day. The fantastic illustrations have been provided by my buddy Nicholas Small over in Teine. I'll include his original Tanuki sketch as well for I think it says things on its own that are very different from what my photoshoppery hath wrought.
When you lived in a fishing town of scarce more than three thousand souls, it was common for young women to just up and leave in the night, eloping with secret lovers or turning to the city, which held the promise of work and a life with a forward momentum. Thus, when Yume disappeared that year, the event was barely a blip on the town’s social radar. The gossips would suck their teeth and whisper about how selfish it was to leave your family and your furosato for the city, but other than their excited and snide comments, the event went undiscussed.

If pressed, her mother would have told you that she blamed her own mother, Yume’s grandmother, for filling the child’s head with wild stories in her youth—tales of adventure and secrets and fantastic creatures that were far beyond the concerns of an honest family in a small town.

While Yume’s parents worked, she would often be sent to stay with her ‘bachan and ‘jichan on their farm just outside of town during the languid summer holidays. Her ‘jichan would be out working the hot fields, while Yume and her ‘bachan would sit in the shaded cool of the house, with the screens slid wide to let the wind breathe through, bringing with it some relief from the humid Hokkaido summers. Together they would prepare onigiri and miso for her ‘jichan’s lunch, and her ‘bachan would tell her fables of the wondrous creatures that hid in the woods on the surrounding hills: of the Tengu and the Kappa and the Tanuki.

Her ‘bachan would tell of how their island was the last home of a great many mystical beings who had once lived all along the sweep of their archipelago nation. However, like the Ainu, they had all been displaced: pushed further and further north by the modern minds who built the great cities and were so clever as to dream that these beings of story had never been. The creatures had been forced into the dark mountain forests at the heart of Hokkaido as the river spirits had their beds paved, and the mountain giants were pierced through by tunnel after tunnel.

She would tell Yume of the Tanuki: wise old cousins of the common raccoon dogs that people came across in the mountain forests. However, unlike their smaller brothers, the Tanuki could walk upright, and they were clever enough to speak the languages of men. They could hide from their foes by turning themselves into statues, and in the silent hours of the night, they would steal into towns from the woods under the cover of darkness to lure away virgins, carrying them off into their mountain forest homes. The only way to dissuade the Tanuki was to bribe them with sake and rice cakes, and so did her ‘bachan put out offerings to the Tanuki on nights when the moon was full.

When Yume had been a child, her ‘bachan’s stories of the Tanuki had frightened her. When the full moon would shine brightly through her curtains and keep her from sleep, she would summon up all the courage she had and crawl to the window. She’d peek only her eyes over the sill, parting the curtains only slightly, and staring out into the night, watching for the Tanuki with a mix of terror and delight.

As she grew into her teenage years, she’d soon forget her ‘bachans stories as her mind filled with concern for school and boys. However, as she neared the end of her schooling, and her wild ambitions for her life were more and more boxed in by the depressing realities of life in a tiny coastal town, there were nights when those stories from her childhood would come back to her, unbidden. She’d dream of being carried off by the Tanuki as even that fantasy escape from the dull, long days in her town seemed more and more welcome.

When she finally graduated from her town’s tiny high school, she had been pressed into service at her mother and father’s tiny shop that sat along the main road that ran through the town and onwards to more interesting, omiyage-worthy locales. It was expected that, like her sisters, she would work at the shop for her parents until she found herself a suitable husband and she could switch careers to that of a full-time mother.

And in the drudgery of that day-to-day, her ‘bachans stories would come back ever stronger, causing her to spend the long days with no customers only half conscious of the world around her. She’d wander through ancient dreamscapes from the country’s feudal past, consorting with dragons and ogres and goblins alike. When she was dismissed at the end of her fruitless days, she would visit her town’s tiny, rickety jinja, and she would drop coin after coin into the strangely angled wooden collection box, hearing them clatter emptily inside. She would perform the actions by rote: clapping her hands, jangling the tinny bell, and praying for only one thing with all her heart: that she be granted an escape from this slowly dying town.

The Tanuki came to her in the night, not long after her twentieth birthday. She’d been spending so much of her time in her daydreams of late that she wasn’t surprised to see him, out at the edge of the treed hill behind her parents’ house. She fell into the rhythm of the dream and did not question it, but a part of her that was burning low held out faint hopes for those half-remembered stories from childhood.

She went to him across the slightly damp grass, under the full moon. And, without her having to say a word in greeting, he spoke.

His name was Inazuma, and it meant lightning. He spoke to her of how he would be the Tanuki and she would be the Fox, and they would run free under the stars. Her eyes shimmered like morning snow, he said, and the white of her skin could cause the moon to blush red with envy. Together they would fashion thunder on the mountaintops and channel the steams of the hotsprings into clouds and rain. He knew of vast networks of tunnels that glowed with the low light of algae and were heated by multi-coloured natural onsen. He’d show her how to bottle the sweet, heady nihonshu that flowed freely from secret rocky streams, and he’d teach her the rhythm of the seasons by playing it for her across his taught belly. In the dark depths of the valley forests, back where the peaks of the Shakotan range kept out all but the wildest of men, they would make love on carpets of evergreen boughs, and their children would be thought and memory and dream.

Under the full moon, in the dark of the yard, his grey fur shone silver, a bright contrast to the dark pools in which his eyes sat.

She could feel his eyes stare out at her from those dark pools more than she could see them. He asked her “will you come with me?”
The man came to her only a few days later, in her parents’ shop. As it sat along the main road through their town, every so often people from the city would wander in, look around distractedly, before wandering back out to their cars. When he came in, she scarcely moved her eyes to look at him, assuming that he would soon be back upon his way. She nearly slipped from her stool when he addressed her in the empty shop.

His name was Kaneko, and it meant Child of Wealth. He spoke to her of how he would be the proprietor and she would be the chief hostess of his private izakaiya just outside of Susukino. Her curves were that of an idol, he said, and her wit could hoodwink the cleverest of Sararimen. Together, they would make hundreds of thousands a night. He knew the business well, and he could show her fleeting glances that would have patrons following her all night long, looking only to buy more drinks for the pleasure of her company. He’d show her tricks to make those patrons pay twice for one drink, and he’d teach her how to read the needs of wanton men in their veiled eyes. In the low light of their izakaiya, any man she wanted would be hers, and any woman she loathed would envy her.

In the late afternoon heat, he had to remove his black suit jacket in her family’s tiny oven of a shop. Under the translucent white of his shirt, she swore she caught a glimpse of livid black lines snaking on his skin.

From under a standing mane of sharp hair, he starred at her with sharp, dark eyes. He asked her “will you come with me?”
She was just one more woman to disappear in the night, more resented than in any way mourned by her mother and her sisters, who’d assumed she had run to the city like so many others. Her ‘bachan, however, thought differently. On the night after Yume’s disappearance, she bent down slowly and carefully placed a bowl of nihoshu and a rice cake at the top of the back steps that faced her family’s fields and the mountain forests beyond. She looked out over the fields and then up at the slightly waning moon, smiling vaguely before turning back inside and putting out the light.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Kiroro (An Undying Winter)

To Kiroro

Winter exists, my love.


It has been hiding from us at the heart of Hokkaido, sheltered in from the coasts and the seas, in places you have to brave dangerous high passes to find. From December's first sprinklings you drive up and over mountains and down into the icy full of February.


To Kiroro


At summit, you break the clouds momentarily and are reminded of the sun, of the blue sky, and then down you plunge, past other peaks where you can SEE the howl of the white wind as it curls over the top of them like they were so many tiny snow piles.


To Kiroro

To Kiroro


You dive down through blizzards that make your stomach drop when you look up and can no longer see anything out of the front of the bus, to ski-jos where the white around and the grey above is all so thick that they have to burn night lights in the day time in a vain attempt to glow orange through the soup of it.

To Kiroro


To Kiroro

To Kiroro

To Kiroro

To Kiroro

To Kiroro

To Kiroro

It is here that winter has been hiding while we pined away for it for so long: here, hunkered down in these forgotten valleys at island's core, where it may well have waited out the whole of the long, hot summer.


Never melting. Only waiting to blow back out across Hokkaido.

And, from what I've seen here today, there is no doubt that it's coming.


On Sunday, I finally made it out to Kiroro: a surprisingly big ski resort, just inland from Otaru, that I'd been ignoring for no good reason (Niseko blinders?) all of last season. Even with the high winds keeping the gondola and higher courses closed, the resort was still able to open their hooded quad lifts, and one of those took a good fifteen minutes from base to top, which is an indication of how very much mountain Kiroro has to mess around with. The difference between Teine on Saturday and Kiroro on Sunday was quite literally night and day. I went from wet snow and sun/cloud conditions at the former to a gale-force blizzard at the latter. There were points when I was heading down some pretty steep courses at Kiroro and I was convinced that the strength of the wind coming up the hill might just succeed at stopping me in my tracks. By the time I finished my three hours of boarding, large parts of my gear had iced up, and I was starting to feel more than a little cold. It was all very much worth it as Sunday at Kiroro felt a lot more like proper snowboarding than Saturday at Teine had.

2010 - 2011 Moutain Day 2

To Kiroro

To Kiroro